Electric Guitar

Guitar 13

I finally got around to building myself an electric guitar. I have been planing on making guitars for years, I have been reading up, collecting tools and finally gave it a shot. It was a really fun project and I will be making more. There was no power tools used in the woodworking of this, it was all done by hand, as with all my woodworking projects. Here are some specs:

- Flame maple / Sitka spruce chambered body

- Aluminum Nut

-Ebony Fretboard with 12” radius

-Maple neck with walnut veneered headstock

-Klusen tuners

-T.K Smith CAR pickups

-Bigsby vibrato

-Inlaid pick guard

Guitar 15

This instrument is inspired by the work of Paul Bigsby on the guitars he made in the 1950’s. I love playing it and can’t wait to start my next one. Below are some pictures of various stages of construction. 

Guitar 1Guitar 2Guitar 3Guitar 4Guitar 5Guitar 6Guitar 7Guitar 8Guitar 9Guitar 11
Guitar 10
Guitar 12
Guitar 14
Guitar 16

Barnes Combined Machine Table Saw and Winter Update

Welcome back. I have recently purchased an item I’ve wanted for the shop for a long time, a Barnes Combined Machine as well as a few other items at an auction. The saw was quite dirty when I purchased it, all that I wanted to do was clean it and get it running again. The base was greasy with a hundred plus years of dirt caked on. 

BeforeBase cleaned

So I started disassembling the machine by taking off the top, belt and treadle pedal from the base. The belt is very old and in need of replacement. These machines have quite a large flywheel on them, I removed the whole shaft and flywheel together. Everything was scrubbed down with just soap and water. I didn’t want to use any solvents that would ruin the original finish, as a previous owner did (I have still yet find a cleaner that can be trusted other than soap to not ruin an antique paint).

 After cleaning, the base was re-assembled and the top was next to require attention. There was a small hole in the top near the pulley that could have caused a problem. I made a small patch and mixed up some stain to match the top. After a coat of linseed oil was applied and then waxed. The wood was quite dry and the oil and wax gave it a nice feel as well as a nice work surface. The only thing that still requires attention is the babbitt bearing on the small pin wheel pulley needs to be replaced, which I will do in spring or summer when the weather is nicer. I am using a bronze bushing temporary till then. The belt and new blade were installed and the saw is ready to use. 


How does it operate? Quite well actually, as with most treadle tools you can’t force the wood through, just take your time and apply gentle pressure as you put it through. This particular model was only offered with a fence, which is good as I intend on using it only for rip cuts at this time. I may make a sled for it to allow for accurate cross cuts if required. After some research I was able to date this saw from around the mid 1880’s to early 1890’s based of images in old catalogs I found online and some other sources. 


I am presently working on an electric guitar, and have completed the drill press project pages and will soon be accepting commissions for work. There is also some other items I bought at auction that I will be cleaning up which will be in a future blog posting.

Saw Filing Bench

Saw Bench1

With not having much room in the shop, it can be tough to find a place to sharpen my saws. I don’t really want to have metal filings on my bench, and needed a place to mount my saw vise so it can be ready when required. My old work bench was being used up until recently, but room was needed for a new tool in the shop (more on that in a later entry). While reading the book Working with Hand Tools Essential Techniques for Woodworking by Paul N. Hasluck, I came across an image of a saw filing bench (I’m not sure if I can share the image in the blog, so here is a link to it else where on the web were you can find it here) on page 72, fig 274. This little bench could solve a few issues in my shop such as, the permeant mounting of my saw vise, storing my sharping tools, and acting as a second saw bench when needed for long cuts. 

Saw Bench3

The bench is constructed out of a standard spruce 2x10 from a big box store. I wanted a 2x12 but they didn’t carry them at the location near me. The bench was constructed from one nine foot board, and some clear pine was also purchased for the drawer sides and bottom. The front was done with some scrap walnut. 

Saw Bench5

The details of construction were quite limited in the book, but it gave more then enough to get it easily built. The height of the seat was made to match my saw bench, so it can be used to help support stock when needed. The seat is joined to the legs with wedged tenons (used walnut for some contrast), and has a camber around the edge to make it more comfortable. The drawer is hung under the seat on maple sliders, and the front is attached with half blind dovetails, while the rear with rabbit joint. 

Saw Bench2

The legs are finished with General Finishes Lamp Black Milk Paint and the seat with blond shellac, rubbed with 0000 steel wool, then waxed. This finish has been easy to clean and looks good. The Gramercy Tools Saw Vise was completed with some walnut scales added to the handle with some brass rivets. The drawer is fitted with a primitive ring pull from Lee Valley.

Hows the filing bench in use? It works good, I am much more comfortable while sharping. I like the use my saw bench as an additional seat so I can sit off to one side when sharping in certain directions. The addition of saw bench also helps when using some of my treadle activated saw sets as well. It also added quite a bit of storage for most of my saw sharping tools that are used on a regular basis. I would recommend this to anyone looking for a place to mount a saw vise or build it with the vise as shown in the book. If you don’t have room for a dedicated larger saw area, go for this.

Saw Bench4

Douglas Fir Desk


I have been wanting to build a desk for my personal use for a while now, and happened to come across some live edge Douglas Fir that would be perfect for it. It is primarily used for my computer and music needs. I sat down and came up with some drawings and set out to work. The live edge was utilized on the front edge of the top and for the shelf. I designed a craftsman style inspired base. This inspiration was not only used for style, but also for the joinery. The only fasteners used in the construction are for the drawer handles and attaching the top. The entire base is mortised and tenoned together. The top incorporates a solid slab of fir, with some dutchmen added to help prevent the cracks from spreading. They also look great.

The desk is finished with blonde shellac, the crack is filled with a historical filler using burnt umber as a pigment. The finish was hand rubbed then waxed. 

Below is some pictures of the completed desk.


Fall Update

Welcome. It has been quite some that I’ve posted a blog entry, I have only slacked  off on the blog, not in the workshop. Several projects have been completed in the past few months with some new ideas and plans coming around the corner.

So let's start with new projects. Some of these have been shown on Twitter, Pinterest and more recently Instagram.

Dutch Tool Chest


I built this Dutch Tool Chest using white pine and a breadboard walnut top. The chest was built all by hand as usual and finished with General Finishes Lamp Black milk paint and Tried and True Varnish Oil for the top. This project is fairly easy to build and gave me extra storage. (I have either too many tools or a storage problem, I decided to solve to storage problem)

Moxon Style Vise

I built this moon style vise using walnut for the jaws and some maple for the screws. The same finishes as above were used.

Silver #22 Drill Press

I finally finished my drill press! It hadn’t been worked on in a bit but I am finally done it. The drill press project part of this site is being updated and will be finished soon. There will be more pictures and some of the processes I’ve done to get this finished. It works very well in operation. 

There is also a desk that I designed and built that I will be showing in the next entry, you can see a pic of the completed desk on Instagram. Till next time.

Workbench Part 7 - Finishing Touches


In this entry I will be completing the workbench. The holes for the lag bolts were marked and drilled (right). The lag bolts hold the vise nut to the vise back and leg. They were drilled then the nut was temporarily installed and pilot holes were marked and drilled into the leg and vise back for the bolts. 


Next it was time to attach the top. The top is held in place by four one inch dowels. The two front dowels were placed in the centre of the top of the front leg (left). The rear dowels were installed in the stretchers. Once the holes were drilled in the base (left) and the dowels were glued in, the bottom of the top was next. The front hole was drilled one inch in diameter and the rear holes were drilled and chiseled out to allow for expansion of the top (below). This method allows to top to move and holds the top in place. If I ever need to removed the top or the sliding dead man, all I need to do is lift the top.


Next the wagon vise was put together. I made this myself with some extra parts that I had, as well as some purchased ones. For the screw, some acme left hand threaded rod, one inch diameter, sixteen inches long with six threads per inch, were purchased. Some square nuts were procured as well from Roton. The handle is from some drill press parts that I have. To fit the handle on the threaded rod, a shaft reducer was needed. I could not find anything available locally, but a one inch bronze bushing was almost perfect. A hole was drilled in the bushing (right top), which allows a set screw on the handle to tighten to the threaded rod. I then assembled them temporarily to allow fitting to the bench. The screw was placed on two pillow blocks, and the nut put on as well as the handle (right bottom). 


Before the wagon vise can be mounted, the holes were laid out for the bench dogs and hold fasts. Along the front of the bench there is a row of dog holes about four and a half inches apart and two and one-eighth of an inch in form the front. Hold fast holes were marked long the centre line of the bench, about sixteen inches apart and a rear row offset and about four inches in from the back. The holes were drilled with my brace and a guide was used to help keep the holes straight. No holes were drilled where the legs are, prairie dogs from Lee Valley will be used in these locations along the front row. At the right end of the bench a mortise was laid out for the wagon vise. It is about ten and three quarters long. Next, there was two mortises cut in the bottom of the bench for the pillow blocks to sit in. They were at a depth where the top of the square nut runs smoothly but snugly along the bottom of the bench top. This provides support for the nut along the bottom. There is metal tube is brazed to the nut (will get welded later) that holds a bench dog that allows me to pinch work between two dogs. The completed wagon vise is shown below. A few shaft collars were added next to the pillow blocks.


Now it was time to cut the vise chop to length, and round over the top edge. The edge was rounded over with a block plane and spoke shave (left). The support for the guide was also made and put on the long stretcher with some tapered dove tails, and glued into place. The bench is now ready for disassembly (below), at which time the corners of the long stretchers and tusk tenons will be rounded over. 



The bench was sanded down with two handed and twenty grit sandpaper and finished with multiple coats of Tried and True Varnish Oil. The hardware for the wagon vise and vise nut were stripped of the plating with citric acid and treated with gun blueing (right), to give a nice black finish.  The finished bench has tuned out to be wonderful to work on and is a great improvement over my old bench. The hold fasts that were purchased from Ed Lebetikn at the tools store above the Woodwright’s School, work great and I highly recommend them. I would like to thank Will Myers for inspiring my version of the Moravian Workbench. Below are some pictures of the completed bench. 


Work Bench Part 6 - Vise and Sliding Dead Man

This time I will be going through the steps of making the vise, sliding dead man as well as final planing on the top. The front vise requires a back that will have a mortise into the stretcher and the top. The nut for the vise screw will be mortised into the leg and bolted on the vise back.


The blank for the vise chop was made first. I did a long rip cut to get the board close to the final thickness desired (right). It was then planed square and finished to a size of eight inches wide, two and a quarter inches thick and thirty-two inches long. The location of the vise screw was laid out next. Then using an expansion bit, I drilled a hole for the screw to pass through (below left). I opted for the external garter option, which was laid out and installed as well. Then the sides were marked at an angle, with a seven inch straight area at the top, tapering down to six inches at the bottom. This will be cut later as well as the final length of the vise. The vise chop temporarily installed is pictured below right.




The vise back was built next. After it was cut, it was planed the final thickness which is the distance from the vise nut to the front of the leg, one and five eights of an inch thick. After the stock was squared up the angles of the leg was marked and was cut. The angle of the vise chop was then marked, cut and planed as well. It only needs to be close now, it will be planed flush after the vise is installed to make things perfect. The mortise that will go in the legs and top are marked and cut next.  The hole for the vise screw to go through was marked and drilled (left). I used an expansion bit to drill a two and seven eights inch hole. These holes were drilled with my hand brace. It was not fun. Not at all. There will also be holes for lag bolts for the vise nut that will be drilled after the bench is together. 


The vise front was next laid out for the guide. The guide will sit in a through mortise in the chop. I laid out the mortise, then chopped it out with my mortise chisel (right). This joint will have 2 wedges in that will lock it in place when it is glued together. The angles were also cut and planed on the chop now as well. The guide needed to be made as well. I laid mine out so it will be sitting below the long front stretcher on a support that will be added later. The guide measures twenty and three-quarters long, two inches wide and seven eights of an inch thick. There are holes drilled in two rows a third of the width of the guide in from each edge. The spacing of the holes is one inch apart staggered as seen in the picture. The completed guide with the tenon cut on the end that will go into the vise chop is shown below.



I then started on my sliding deadman. This was planed to final dimensions of five and three quarter inches wide by one and three eights thick. I then made the strip that will run along the long stretcher and provide a track for the dead man to slide in. This was planed to three quarters of an inch thick by one and three eights wide. I then marked a line from the centre of the top down the side. The centre of the track is three quarters thick and tapers down to leave a five-sixteenth of an inch thick base at the bottom.  This will create a v that will keep the dead man in its track. I planed this with my jointer plane. The track was then fitted where it will go on the long stretcher and cut to final length. Both ends are at angles for the leg and vise back. Then holes were laid out for nails that will attach it to the long stretcher and it was installed with a small amount of glue and some headless brads (below). Next the tongue on the top of the dead man was cut. The bottom was cut at the same angle as the track previously made and was cut and planed smooth with a shoulder plane to provide a nice smooth bearing surface for sliding. The top was cut with a tongue that will slide in a corresponding groove in the bottom of the top.  Then the holes for pegs or a hold down were laid out with dividers. They were then drilled with three quarters of an inch holes. The spacing is one-third in from each edge, two inches apart staggered as shown above right.


Now it was time to do the final planing of the top. It like doing any other surface to plane this, just a lot larger. I planed the top by clamping the top to the legs. This gave good support for the top and was not in the way at all (below left). Both surfaces were finished planed, and the long edges were squared up. The ends where then cut as well (below right).


Top 6

The mortise for the vise back and the groove for the sliding dead man to slide in were cut next. The stopped groove was cut by making small mortises at the ends and then using a plow plane and chisel to finish off (right). Below is a picture of the near complete bench, which will be finished in the next entry.


Work Bench Part 5 - The Top and Shelf


Welcome, this time we will be showing the steps to make the bottom shelf boards and the top for the work bench. I decided to start with the shelf, and used some white oak boards that have been laying around the shop for a few years. Now was a good time to make use of them, they match the rest of the oak and are close to the thickness desired. First, the length of the grove in the long stretcher that will support the shelf was measured to find the length of the shelf. Because of the angle of the legs, the end shelf boards will be at an angle at the ends where they meet the legs. I knew the approximate length of the shelf which gave me an idea of how many boards it will take to make the shelf. Then using dividers, I stepped out the top of the grove line to get the width of each board. The two ends boards are left a little longer to make up for the angle of the legs. Stepping out with the dividers gave me equal sizes for the shelf boards. Now that the width of the shelf boards were found (and don’t forget about the tongue), the oak was cut to length (the width of the shelf, plus and inch for the tongue that will support the shelfs into the long stretchers), squared and planed to approximately three quarters of an inch.  I also prepared the half inch thick tusks at this time from the same stock.


First the base line of the tongue that will go into the long stretchers was marked (right). The tongue is one half inch deep and thick. Once the baseline was marked, it was time to mark the tongue with my mortising gauge. Next the tongue is marked on all the boards, then the base line was cut with a hand saw. This makes for a nice base line. Then with my Record 405 plane, two rabbits were planed making a tongue. It was finished off with a large shoulder plane to clean it up. Next it was time to mark the tongue and grove on the long edges of the shelf boards. I set my mortising gauge to the size of my tongue cutting blade, approximately one quarter inch. Once these were marked, I set the depth adjustment on my tongue blade to about three eights of an inch and cut all the tongues. On the two end boards, they will only need a tongue on one and a grove on the other end board. The groves were cut next, with my Record 405 plane as before. 

TongueGroveComplete BoardComplete Shelf

Next I started on the top. This is the largest item I have ever worked on, and it went fairly well. Its just not easy moving oak like this around by your self. I had determined the maximum length top I could use in my workshop and with the stock I have and came up with eighty-three inches long and the width was previously determined as twenty-three and a half. So the timbers were sorted as to which would be were, and top and bottom. There is a lot to take into account as my top is three boards glued together, so grain direction is important for easy planing once assembled. Then it was time to plane the boards. I started by making one flat face on each, which is the top face. I got started out with my scrub plane, then moved on to the jack plane to get the top flat (below). I didn’t use any other planes at this point as everything will be planed once again after the glue up. 


It is the same process to plane a large timber as a small board, just more time and effort is required. The edge was planed next, followed by making the board to width and square. The bottom was left rough at this point, they will all be planed after they are all ready. That way I can find maximum thickness for the top (which ended up being three and a quarter). Once they were all close in thickness they were prepared for glue up. To help keep things lined up,  six one inch dowels were used as pins on the edges (right).

Once the dowels were cut it was time for glue up. It takes alot of glue for a joint of this size. A full fresh container is what I started with, that way there was more then enough available, you down want to come up short once you have started. This was a large joint and took a lot of persuading to get it tight. Clamps as well as my lump hammer were used to get things together. Two of the boards for the top were glued at once (below), let dry, then the third was added. Doing all three at once would be a lot more difficult. Not to mention that it was hard enough to do this on my current workbench. 


Once all three were glued together they are planed as one with my jack plane (below), making them all one level surface. I just got it close for now, I am going to let it sit before final planing to allow for any movement that may occur. 

Top 4

That is it for this time. Next some of the bench accessories will be worked on as the bench nears completion.

Work Bench Part 4 - Assembly


Now that all the joinery is cut and ready to go (above), it is time for the worst part of most projects, the glue up. It’s a messy, sticky, sliding mess. But its necessary, so I test fitted all the joints first (right), and made a few adjustments where ever was needed. There is really only a few glue joints in this bench, the legs are what I started with. Once both legs were fitted, the draw bored joints were marked and drilled. Half inch dowels will be used for the draw bored joint in the top stretcher. The holes were first drilled in the legs centre of each mortise and tenon joint, through the mortice first (left). Don’t forget some backing in the mortice so the drill won’t bust through. The legs were then reassembled, then the centre of the tenon was marked with the drill bit that was just used. After all the centres were marked I took apart the legs. Then a pilot hole was marked with my bird cage awl, slightly (a bit more then a sixteenth of an inch) toward the shoulder of the top stretcher from the hole that was previously marked with the drill bit. This was marked more towards the shoulder to keep pressure on the joint once the dowel is pounded through. Then the holes were drilled in the tenon.


The dowels were made form a large chunk of the same oak that I had used for the legs. So first it was split up with an axe and froe (right). Then they were made into  smaller parts with my push knife  and spokeshave to fit through my dowel plate (below left). The whittled down oak dowels were pounded through my dowel plate with my engineers hammer (below right). If then they can take being beat like that, they pass my test.  


Now It was time to get ready for glueing. There is a list for things I always have ready for this stage:

  • Clamps - Ready to go, fully opened to just more then I will need. You don’t want to play around with them while glue is drying. 
  • Wet cloths - I use modern glue. These are a must for cleaning up as you go.
  • Glue Brush - I don’t care what kind of brush. Just one near by.
  • Mallet - I use a dead blow normally. For this one I had my engineers hammer and a scrap of wood near by as well.


I then started the glue up. These are massive joints. They sometimes just don’t want to move as you assemble them, Use the clamps and hammers you have available. There is no turning back now. I started putting the legs together with my dead blow hammer, once the joints got close to being closed, they were tough so I switched to my engineer’s hammer. It’s a nice small sledge that I used with a block of wood, to not damage the piece. The joints were then clamped together and the leg was checked to see if it was square. The pegs for the draw bored mortice were also driven in now.


The long stretchers were then fitted to the legs.  The joints were adjusted as needed, once they were together, the rear wall of the tusk tenon holding the base together was marked. I then prepared some half inch stock to make the tusks (left) . Next the wall of the tusk tenon was marked about a quarter of an inch toward the shoulder, and traced the tusk tenon onto the long stretcher (below). The mortise was then marked on the top and bottom, and were drilled out. The mortise was cut the rest of the way with my mortice and bevel edge chisels. Notice the chip in picture below, that happen during the assembly of the base, luckily I left the tenons a bit long.


The long stretchers were then prepared for the shelf Im adding across the long stretcher. I made a half inch rebate along the inside face of both stretchers to accommodate a tongue on the end of the shelf boards. It was a cut to about a half inch deep. (below)


I was then able to assemble the base. The long stretchers were then placed through the legs on one side. Then I placed the other leg assembly on the stretchers. After persuading them together with my hammers,  the tusk tenons were put in and lightly hammered to tighten the leg assembly up. The assembled base is shown to below. 


Well, that concludes this entry and next time I will be preparing the shelf boards, and getting the top ready for glue up. 

Work Bench Part 3 - Laying out the Joinery


This time I will be laying out the joinery for the base. There is a lot to lay out for the legs, including many mortise and tenon joints, a dovetail joint, as well as a mortise for the vise nut on the front leg. First I decided which leg would go where, and what sides were faces. The legs are at a sixteen degree angle to the top and the mortices are parallel to the side of the legs. The two legs for one side were clamped together and marked for the top of the legs, as well as the mortices for the stretchers (top). A line was also made where the top edge of the through mortices for the long stretcher will be, the base of the mortise will be marked later. The process was repeated with the other two legs.  After all four legs had matching marks, the lines were transferred around the legs and I prepared to mark the mortices. All the mortices are one and a half inches wide and the full height of the stretchers, through the five inch thick legs. They were all marked at once, using the gauge set up only once to mark them and was left that way until the shoulder tenons were marked. This keeps things accurate, instead of resetting the gauge all the time. It pays to have a couple of marking gauges. Also at this time, I picked which stretcher would go were, and marked the height of the mortice off the actual part, not a measurement. The top of the legs were then cut to the sixteen degree angle, and the mortices for the long stretcher was marked as well (above).


While the legs were out, I decided to cut the leg mortices. I marked the centre of the mortice with my dividers and marked where the holes would be drilled. I use a bird cage awl to mark the centre of my holes (above left). This allows the bit to start easily, right where I want it. After all the mortices were marked in such a manner, I moved on to drilling out the waste with my new Irwin expansion bit (above right). It preformed very well, cutting through this tough Manitoba oak with ease. All the holes were drilled in from both sides, to aid in keeping the holes straight.


Next the tenons were marked. The short stretchers were easy to mark, the length of them is the width I wanted the finished bench top to be, plus about three-thirty-second of an inch. I marked (left), and then cut them to twenty-three and eleven-sixteenths of an inch. I cut them as accurately as I could, but the ends won’t be planed at this stage. There is a bit extra that will stick out the ends, that will be planed flush to the leg later. Both legs for one side were then sat upon their respective stretchers. There was a little sticking over the ends, that will be planed later. They were then marked to be the final width apart with a marking knife, and the base of the tenon was marked on the top stretcher. This line was marked all around the board, and was transferred to the middle stretcher and the lower dovetailed stretcher, as the base line of the dovetail. The legs for the other side were done as well. The tenons were then marked with the gauge I used before, only having adjusted the fence for centre of each stretcher, not for the spacing of the two marking points. 


First the line for the top of the mortice for the long stretcher mortice was marked at sixteen degrees. Then the legs were laid on the ground, face up, in the positions they will be in (above). I placed the long stretcher on the top of the legs, and lined up the top with the line previously marked for the top of the mortice. The bottom of the mortices was marked right off the stretcher. The line for the approximate shoulder of the tenon was marked at this time as well as the long stretcher. I then laid out the mortice and tenon, and drilled the holes in the leg. To drill the holes at the angle with ease, I clamped the leg in a vise at sixteen degrees, and drilled at a ninety degree angle (right). 


I further reduced the waste in the mortices with my bow saw (below). I have used my bow saw for quite some time now, and I find for some applications, the blades (and coping saw blades as well) are too thin for some tasks. For the past little while I have been using a blade that I made for my bow saw, using my Foley retoother. It is cut from .025”  thick spring steel at ten ppi, with about twelve degrees rake and about ten degrees fleam. It is quarter inch wide and twelve inches long. I cut two hardened steel pins to hold the blade in place, and drilled holes for them with a carbide drill bit. It cuts like a dream. After all the mortices were drilled, I cleaned them up with a chisel.


Next the tenons were all cut in the same manner. I started with the short stretchers for the legs, they were cut mostly with my large tenon saw, which was a bit too short, so it was finished up with my frame saw (left). The tenons for the long stretcher were cut with a Disston D8 filed to a ten degree rake, which did this rip cut well (below).


 The next step was to chisel out the mortices (below). I used my morticing and bevel edge chisels to remove the waste, with several trips to the sharpening stones, as this oak is very tough.


The mortice for the leg vise nut was laid out and cut at this time as well. It is cut  into the leg as a mortise, and will need holes for leg bolts that will attach the nut to the leg. First the placement of the screw was determined and marked. This gave the nut location. The nut needed to be mounted so that it will be tight to the vise back when it is installed. So I determined the thickness of the back and marked that as my line for the mortise and laid out the rest with my mortising gauge, square and my sliding bevel. After it was marked, it was drilled and chopped out to the proper depth (below).


The dovetails were the last to be cut. First the stretchers were cut to their final length and then squared the ends up. The base line of the dove tails was determined previously, so the length was the base line plus the dove tail lengths.  I went with a bold sixteen degree angle, to match the leg angle. I cut the tails first (below left), in the usual manner, and they are big dovetails, so it is time to try to do the best saw cut your can. Happy with the results, it was time to transfer the tails on to the legs. I laid out the legs and placed the dove tail stretcher on top and lined up the shoulder with the edge of the leg, then clamped them together once they were lined up. The tail was then marked with a marking knife, and the half blind dove tail was cut. I cut as much as I could with a saw (below right), then the rest was drilled and chiseled out.


That is it for this time, its has been some time from my last post till now, but I hope to have more time now to get some work done on this site. Next time I will glue the base together, as well as give it a first assembly. Till next time.

© Shane Larson 2018